Brake Pedal

Is your brake pedal is squeaking? Do Not simply oil it!

The brake pedal uses plastic bearings in the top pivot and those need to be replaced once they start squeaking. They are intended to be used dry and will usually end up squeaking worse if you oil them. The oil may help for a little while, but it's been my experience the squeak soon returns and is louder than before. (The oil may react negatively with the plastic. It appears to draw dirt into the pivot. Either way the squeak will return, usually sooner than later.)

The pushrod pivot can and should be lubricated. Oil will work but grease is better. I use the same synthetic brake grease on this pivot as I use on the caliper hardware. The brake grease won't run or evaporate like many petroleum products will.

Replacement bushings for the main pivot are available thru Rodney Dickman and MotorMite's HELP! product line. (The HELP! ones were $2.49 at the local Pep Boys store.)

The OE and MotorMite bushings are made to leave just a little bit of play in the pivot. Rodney's are supposed to fit tighter. I don't think it matters much which ones you use. I've never actually seen a set wear thru on the brake. They just get scored up from dirt and start creaking when you push the pedal. (The clutch probably can wear thru them because it has way more travel then the brake normally does. Rodney's thicker bushing should have an advantage there.)

The MotorMite bushings I used needed a tiny trim to seat all the way in the pivot sleeve. The slanted gap is a hair too small. I just snip about 1-2 mm off one edge of the gap with sharp wire cutters. (About the smallest amount you can grab with the cutters.)

To change the bushings you'll need a 15mm wrench and socket to remove the bolt that holds it in place. You'll also need some needle nose pliers for the pin thru the pushrod pivot.

If you have rear window defog, you'll need a 10mm wrench to remove the timer so you can see the brake pedal bolt better. It's the big metal box on the right side of the pedal bracket.

The only part that matters what order you assemble it is the pushrod pivot. The assembly order is: spring washer, pushrod, flat washer, and pin.

In cars with Automatic Transmission, the whole job should take between 30 and 60 minutes. It's not hard to do, just rather awkward to reach. I don't know how long it would take in a Manual Transmission car. Likely allot longer since you've got even less room to work.

Brake Pedal Ratio

For those people doing brake math on Fiero, while I had my pedal out to replace the bushings I measured it.... (That high-pitched creaking was really annoying.... Now I just have to do the seat rails...)

Pivot to MC pin, 67mm on center

Pivot center to pedal center, 270mm. That puts you right over where the pad is welded to the arm.

The calculator says that's 4.030 to 1.

My guess for the brake upgrade article was allot closer than I would have thought... The exact ratio will vary slightly depending on just how your foot rests on the pedal.