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Author
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Topic: (How-To) - Headlight Conversion to 88 - How I did it.
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Dodgerunner Member Posts: 7758 From: Lincoln, Nebraska Registered: Sep 2004
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I had rebuilt/restored both my headlight motors on my 85GT and thought I
was good for a couple years. Meanwhile I had picked up 88 Firebird
headlight parts for the day I wanted to do a conversion. Well as things
would go, the right side quit this week. The down limit switch decided
it would break, so no better time to convert then now.
I didn't
have a Fiero wire harness and really didn't care if I had one since I
planned on just "doing it" so thought I might as well write it up if
someone else wanted to do one.
So lets get started. Didn't take a
lot of pictures so will try to explain while I go. I took my time and
was able to do this in three hours with breaks. If you don't get done
you can always install the buckets and manually run the lights in a
pinch.
Here is what your starting with. This is what we are shooting for when done.

****************Now
the disclaimer: Once you start this there is no return unless you want
to re-splice your cuts. I have documented this and believe it to be
accurate. Proceed at your own risk. **********
I decided I was
not going to put the module in the standard Fiero location but would
keep in it the trunk. Nice spot seemed to be right in front of the brake
master.
Here are the parts I started with. A left and right
motor with plugs and fair amount of wire on each, and the module with
plugs and some wire. I picked the parts up at a U-pull-it for $25. I
bench tested all three parts before installing them.

The module has a 5 pin plug (control and power) and a 4 pin plug (Motor connections). Both plugs are labled A-E and A-D.
If you look at the 5 wire plug closest to you there are the following wires. A- Yellow - Open power signal. B- Red - Fuseable link power for motors. C- White - Close power signal. D- Black - Ground. E- Red - Fuseable link power for motors.
As it just happend GM kept these five wire colors the same between the Firebird and the Fiero making these five fairly easy.

After pulling the headlight buckets this is what your left with.

Next I pulled the wires out of the loom so I could locate the wires needed. Here are the points I exposed the wires. You will find the two fuseable links near the brake master.

And another angle.

1. The first step is to disconnect the battery since you will be working with some wires with power on them. 2.
Locate the LH headlight relay socket plug with the red, two pink and
black wires. Cut all four of these off the plug. You will endup using
three. The red will be pulled back to the module, the two pink will be
spiced together to get motor power the right hand motor.
 3.
Where the small loom goes up and over the radiator locate the one red
(power) to the right hand motor and cut it at this location. This will also be pulled back to where you mount your module.
 4.
Pull the black wire (ground from the headlight relay) and both red
wires out of the loom back to the place where the wires come from the
trunk to the headlight area. (the area where the ISO relay wires are
located. 5. The two pink wires you cut from the headlight relay will
be used to run motor power to the RH motor. I spliced these two
together so that I could pull the longer pink wire going to the RH motor
side back to the Iso relay area using the pink wire that had connected
to the Iso relay. The splice pulled back to this area and then I removed
the short pink piece used to pull it. It is no longer needed. 6. Cut the plugs off that connected to the Iso relay. 7. Time to stop and check your wires. In the Iso Relay area you should have the following wires. (2) Red wires. Fuseable link power. (1) Dk Blue/wht RH motor power (1 ) Pink RH motor power (1) Yellow (1) White
(1) Black - It's your choice here. This can be used as the ground
for the module or you can just use a ground in the trunk area of your
choice. I use one of the headlight ground wires. 8. Now your going
to pulled the following wires into the trunk area or where ever you are
going to locate your module. But read on before you pull them since you
are going to use some of these wires to also pull others wires needed
into the trunk. (2) Red wires. (1) Yellow (1) White (1) Black
The above listed wires when pulled into the truck area will also be
used to pull four additional wires from the headlight area back to
where the module will be. The four will use to get power to the new
motors. 9. Where the wires go through the gromet into the trunk
they are wrapped in tape. The gromet is full but you can pull the wires
through since it stretches and you are removing a couple wires while
adding others. I had no problem doing this. 10. To keep the motor
wire colors matching on the module plug I use the wire from the new
motor plugs since they also match and I had pulled enough out of the
donor car. One motor plug has a green and gray wire pair, the other has a
Green/blk and Gray/blk pair. 11. I picked one or the new plugs that
had wires long enough to reach from the module to the LH motor
location. I temporarily spliced and taped these onto the Red wires to be
used to pulled them into the trunk area. Then remove the splices. 12.
I now cut some wire off the other new motor plug leaving about 8 inches
on the plug to be spliced onto the wires for the RH motor. Using the
wire you just cut off permanently spliced them to the Dk Blue/Wht wire
and Pink wire you pulled back in the Iso Relay area. Note which color
you connect to which wire as you will need to know this later. I then
temporarily spliced these two wires and the black ground wire to the
Yellow and White wires using them to pull the two motor wires and a
ground wire into the trunk area.
It starts to look like this. Looks like a mess but will work out.
13. Now in the trunk area you should have the follow group of wires. (2) Red wires. (1) Yellow (1) White (1) Black Pair (1) Green and (1) Gray Pair (1) Green/blk (1) Gray/blk 14.
If you have used the above parts from a firebird all that should be
left is to splice these wires to the corresponding module wires. I used
the standard twist the wires and solder after slipping a piece of heat
shrink tubing over each of the wires. After your done, dress the looms
back up nice and neat.
15. All that is left to do is cut the
plug off the RH motor relay and the single plug on the Drk blue/wht. You
then can splice the remaining motor plug onto the pink wire and the Dk
blue/wht wire matching them the same as noted in step 12. You did note
that didn't you....?
That should do it... Install the the new
motors in the headlight buckets and install them. Don't forget to
shorten the one bolt on each motor so the arm does on hit it when it
rotates.


[This message has been edited by Dodgerunner (edited 04-26-2009).] IP: Logged |
sparx22 Member Posts: 1490 From: Tucson Registered: May 2008
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Dodgerunner- Good thread. 
What model year range of Firebird headlight motors and control will work?
A quote: "1. The first step is to disconnect the battery since you will be working with some wires with power on them. 2.
Locate the LH headlight relay socket plug with the red, two pink and
black wires. Cut all four of these off the plug. You will use all three.
The red will be pulled back to the module, the two pink will be spiced
together to get motor power the right hand motor."
In the quote
above you state: Cut all four of these off the plug. You will use all
three. Cut 4 use 3, can you explain, one gets insulated (capped off)
right?[This message has been edited by sparx22 (edited 06-22-2008).] IP: Logged |
Dodgerunner Member Posts: 7758 From: Lincoln, Nebraska Registered: Sep 2004
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Not sure on all the years that use the 2gen system but believe it's like 88-92 or so.. I'll have to look that up and see.
On the pink wires, guess that is worded somewhat incorrect, but to answer your quesiton.
If
you look at the pink wires on the orig. schematic it runs from the ISO
relay to the LH Headlight relay and then jumps over to the RH relay. You
are only going to use one of the pink wires to run power over to the RH
motor. The one that runs from the ISO relay to the first (LH) relay is
fairly short. When I cut them off the LH relay socket I spliced the two
pinks together and used the one going to the ISO relay area to pull the
longer one from the RH relay through the harness back to the ISO area.
Then cut the short one off and tossed it. So you only end up using the
one pink wire... the other was just to pull the other back.
That is what I explained in #5.
But thanks, I edited it a bit..[This message has been edited by Dodgerunner (edited 06-22-2008).] IP: Logged | |